• Check battery voltage.
  • Check switch on fixture or on Wall. Check all connections for a bad contact. Make sure all wiring & connections are secure.
  • Check the line (battery) side of the wiring. Make sure that power is being supplied to the fixture.
  • Replace or check all lamps to ensure satisfactory operation.
  • As lamps are removed, examine all sockets to ensure they are not damaged or broken and are making proper and positive contact with the lamps. Make sure all lamp sockets are seated properly into sockets.
  • Examine all electrical connection within the fixture, including at the lamp sockets, to ensure conformance with the wiring diagram on the ballast. If it still will not light, check the voltage at the light.
  • Recommended operating voltage is between 11 and 14 VDC. Voltage drop due to loose connections at 12V fused distribution panels is not uncommon in mobile applications.
  • Adjust torque where needed. Improperly tightened fasteners may reduce voltage delivered to 12V lights and accessories.
  • If one or more light fixtures are controlled by a wall switch verify that it is a DC rated switch. The “DC Rule of Thumb” is “a switch that is rated at 15A 125VAC will likely perform satisfactorily at 15 amps 12VDC.”
  • Contacts on a non-DC rated switch may become corroded. This increases resistance and reduces voltage levels.
  • Check voltage at all wall switches and replace if defective or voltage reading is below 12VDC. Check all connecting points on the 12VDC wiring harness for corrosion. Clean as needed.
  • If there is no voltage at the light, check the wire to make sure they are connected. Black wire is positive (+) and white wire is negative (-). Fixtures are protected against reversed polarity. If improperly connected, the fixture will simply not turn “on”. If the wires are connected properly, and there is still no voltage to the light, check voltage at battery and fuse box.

Incandescent Lamps:  Regular incandescent lamps produce light by passing an electric current through a filament in a vacuum or gas filled bulb. They provide low initial cost, good color rendition and excellent optical control.

Halogen Lamps:  Halogen lamps also use a filament; but since it is sealed in a pressurized capsule containing halogen gas, the lamp provides brighter, whiter light and improved energy efficiency.

LED Lamps: Light from LEDs is concentrated in a beam. Refractive lenses are used to diffuse and spread the beam but this dramatically reduces light output. They are a good choice if mounted close to the work surface. LED’s are not recommended for lighting large areas where a wide dispersal of light is needed. Fluorescent fixtures are the most efficient source of light for illuminating a large area.

Linear Fluorescent Lamps:  Are 4-5 times more efficient than Halogen or Incandescent lamps. In a fluorescent lamp, an electric arc passing between cathodes in a tube excites mercury vapor and other gases and produces UV radiant energy. A phosphor coating on the tube then converts this energy to visible light. Fluorescent lamps are very energy efficient and provide a wide range of color responses.

Compact Fluorescent Lamps:  Compact fluorescent lamps employ small diameter tubes that are bent so they begin and end in a ceramic base. This allows them to be produced in a wide variety of configurations, greatly extending the applications for fluorescent lighting.

  • Alphabetic suffix that follows lamp part number, e.g., F15T8/CW, designates color temperature of lamp. The correlated temperature of a light source is expressed in Kelvins (K) and is a means of describing the appearance or chromaticity of the source itself. It describes the apparent whiteness of the lamp. Incandescent lamps deliver a limited color temperature range between 2700K and 3000K the same color range as a warm white fluorescent lamp.
  • Fluorescent lamps offer a wide choice of color temperatures from cool white (CW) 4100K that produces a bluish white light reminiscent of moonlight on cold snow; Warm White (WW) 2700K to 3400K light with a yellowish tint, reminiscent of fireplaces and candlelight to Daylight (D) 6000-6500K that is typical of mid-morning daylight entering through a window on a sunny day.
  • LEDs have three colors, bright white, cool white and warm white that are 3000K to 5000K.  The RED LEDs are 4000K only.

Lumens per Watt are a rating of a lamp’s light output in relation to the current passing through it or the watts it uses. The more efficient a lamp, the more lumens it will produce per watt of power consumed. This measurement (LPW) is also referred to as lamp “efficacy”.  See products and our catalog for LED lumens.

Lamp Life is a measure of how long a fluorescent lamp operates and determined by that point in time when 50% of the lamps have failed. Lamp life is a function of emitter depletion – when you run out of emitter emission material the lamp will no longer operate. Some lamps will last longer than the rated life and some fail sooner.
Starting methods, switch cycles, the type of ballast used and other factors can significantly affect lamp life. In general, life ratings for fluorescent lamps range from 6,000 to 30,000 hours based on the industry standard of three burning hours per start.

LED is three plus years and range up to 100,000 hours.

Lumens are the measurement for lamp light output. Fluorescent lamps are measured in initial lumens or in design lumens. Initial lumens are a measure of the amount of light that the lamp produces after about 100 hours of operation. Design lumens are a measure of the amount of light that the lamp produces after it has operated for approximately 40 percent of its rated life. Because light output from a fluorescent lamp diminishes over the life of the lamp – a process known as Lamp Lumen Depreciation – a lamp’s design lumens (or mean lumens) are always lower than its initial lumens. Lumen maintenance refers to the rate at which light output declines over time and lumen maintenance percentages are typically based on light output at 40% of a lamp’s rated life.

Fluorescent lamps sold in the United States today are available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes ranging from miniature versions, rated at 4 watts, 6″ in length and 5/8″ diameter, to 215-watt types, 96″ long and 2″ in diameter. Commercially available fluorescent lamp types include T12, T8, and T4 compact and T5-linear and compact. Base types include bi-pin, single pin, several compact bases and recessed double contact.

  • These are standard Lamps, and may be available at your local hardware or can be ordered through local distributor.
  • Follow instructions for Question 1 first.
  • Check for bad contact between the fixture(s) and track. Make sure all bulbs are securely plugged into the bulb sockets.
  • Follow instructions for Question 1 first.
  • Make sure all bulbs are fully and securely plugged into the bulb sockets.
  • Make sure you are not using a dimmer or your fixtures are not connected to a system that features “cinema” (automatic dimming feature at shut-off)  lighting , Thin-Lite do not recommend dimmers or the such, this will revoke the warranty.
  • Follow instructions for Question 1 first.
  • Check for bad contact between the problem fixture(s). Make sure all bulbs are securely plugged into the bulb sockets.
  • The flickering should only be momentary, as it is a built-in protection mechanism against power surges.
  • If lamps still flicker, remove lamps from sockets and re-install them in the opposite direction.
  • Follow instructions for Question 1 first.
  • Check for any bad contact between the fixtures.
  • Make sure the bulb is plugged securely in the socket of the problem light fixture(s).
  • Make sure that the fixture is installed correctly.
  • Check the line (battery) side of the wiring. Make sure that power is being supplied to the fixture.

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